Life above the cloud line

CHAPTER
UPPER SHILLONG
Above Shillong, among the clouds, amid the paddy fields
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THE HOUSE
Where the road climbs past Shillong Peak, ducks by Elephant Falls, and shrugs off the last of the city traffic on the way to Cherrapunjee, somewhere around kilometre twelve, Upper Shillong begins...
Nature seems to have run out of patience for straight lines here; the paddy fields curl wherever they please, the mist sits in for weather, and even the light seems to arrive at its own pace.
This is where Chapter Upper Shillong sits, the first resort of its kind these hills have ever hosted, twenty minutes from the city, and somehow a full climate away from it.
Every room faces the paddy fields, because we never built the kind that doesn't.
ROOMS
42
AMIDST
PADDY FIELDS
FROM
SHILLONG · 20 MINS
OPENED
2024
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A DAY HERE
Simply, the Mood

06:30
HERE THE CLOUDS CLOCK IN EARLY
At this altitude, sunrise isn't something you catch; it's something that surrounds you.
The mist lifts off the rice terraces in no particular hurry, and neither should you.
A pot of Khasi hill first-flush at the glass, paddy fields stretching out from under your window, and not a single reason to check your phone.
It's the kind of morning cities have quietly abolished.
12:40
IN THE MIDDLE OF EVERYTHING
This is the hour the location earns its keep.
Midday here comes with a menu, not a buffet: Jadoh and Doh Neiiong done with restraint, regional produce, terraces out the window.
Eat well, then pick a direction: Cherrapunjee's waterfalls an hour south, Laitlum's sudden canyon nearby, or the pool ten steps away at the cloud line. All three are correct answers.


18:55
WHEN THE SUN CHECKS OUT
Sunset at this altitude doesn't just happen in the sky; it happens in the pool, on the lawn, across the terraces.
The house bar marks the occasion with The Sophie Spritz, Khasi box-myrtle doing what no imported bitters could.
There's a zero-proof version too, so nobody has an excuse to sit this hour out.
Take it poolside. The music and the light are already there.
23:30
THE QUIET CHAPTER
This late, the hills hand the property over to its details: the book wall nodding to Shillong's literary festival, the vinyl installation honouring the Rock Capital of India, the Hill Mynah watching from the artwork.
One last look at the stars, unbothered by a single streetlight, then back to the king bed. The dog's already asleep at the foot of the bed.
Tomorrow the clouds clock in at 6:30 again. You don't have to. That's rather the point.

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EAT AND DRINK
THE HILLS ARE ON THE MENU TOO

ROOM SERVICE
Some hotels fly their menus in. Ours walks in from next door: Khasi classics with organic produce from the region, and tea that grew up in these hills. It's all-day and à la carte, which is a boutique way of saying: come when you're hungry, order what you actually want, and take the window seat.

CASSETTE - KITCHEN & LOUNGE
Every Chapter has its serve, and this one belongs to Sophie, box-myrtle from these very hills, shaken into a spritz on gin or local grain spirit, with a zero-proof twin for the designated explorers. Drink it where the bar meets the paddyfield view, ideally at the exact minute the sun leaves the ridge.
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OUT THE DOOR
WHEN YOU'RE READY TO EXPLORE
Cherrapunjee Waterfalls
Nohkalikai, India's tallest plunge waterfall, and the Seven Sisters, an hour away and at their thunderous best right after the rain.
Living Root Bridges
Bridges the Khasi people grew rather than built, coaxed from rubber-fig roots over generations, the forest's slowest and finest piece of engineering.
Laitlum Canyons
A grassy ridge that ends without warning in a valley with no visible floor, Meghalaya's best argument for looking down.
Elephant Falls & Ward's Lake
Shillong's two old reliables, a three-tiered waterfall and a lake made for slow loops, both minutes into the city you thought you'd left.
THE ROOMS
PICK YOUR BED

19 ROOMS | KING BED
CHAPTER
The room you book to save money and end up not regretting.

6 ROOMS | ROUND BED
ROUNDHOUSE
We built it round so you'd stop looking for corners to sulk in.

14 ROOMS | KING BED
PADDYFIELD
This close to the fields, you'll start checking for mud on your shoes.

3 SUITE | KING BED
SUITE
Everyone else gets the view. You get the view and the space to enjoy gloating about it.
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ARRIVING
GETTING HERE.
The closest runway to your little hideout above the clouds. It’s about a 90-minute drive. We’ll happily handle the airport bit.
Seventeen kilometres above Shillong. Several feet above the clouds.
Rice terraces out the window. Clouds at the pool. Meghalaya everywhere else.
Every animal here is painted on a wall, except the one you bring.
BOOK IT